In almost every restaurant we’ve visited in Austria, I’ve noticed the primary dish coming out from the kitchen is a brothy soup with an enormous liver meatball. Apparently it’s a local favorite, especially when the weather is chilly, and around these parts no one turns their nose up at liver. So of course we had to try it.
The broth was incredible. The kind of soothing warmth you get from Grandma’s kitchen. However, I have yet to acquire a taste for liver, so Mr. T was fortunate to have most of the liver ball all to himself. He was apparently raised on liver, so there you have it. He believes that if you eat the liver of other animals, it will make your liver healthier. I’m still trying to follow the logic as it does seem a bit archaic, but perhaps it will counteract the effects of beer?
Continuing on our tour of Bavaria, we arrived next in Seefeld, Austria, one of the most charming mountain towns in the Alps. As in most mountain towns, Seefeld has a wandering network of paths for hiking, running or slowly strolling. From our hotel, the Vergeiner, we did a quick 4-mile jog past the local ski hill and around the lake, finishing in the center of town in front of the St. Oswald church. Seefeld has hosted numerous Olympic venues in the past, so it has really found a place on the map for winter and summer holidays. Even in the rainy weather, town was bustling on a Sunday with all of the cafés full of coffee drinkers and weekend socializing.
In between Seefeld and Kitzbühel is a charming medieval village called Rattenberg and definitely worth a quick stop. Rattenberg is known for narrow cobblestone streets, ancient architecture, crystal and glass blowing artwork, and the Augustiner Monastery & Church. What’s unique about this church is you can view not only the chapel and a museum; you can walk all the way up to the top of the church tower, even above the bells! You can also walk along the upper exterior of the dome in the cathedral and see the inner workings of the church. Something I’ve never experienced in Europe in over 18 years of visiting, and well worth the 4 Euro.
Our next stop, Kitzbühel, one of my favorite places in Europe, and some of the best skiing in the Alps. The slopes aren’t crowded and après is lively without crossing the insanity line. One of our favorite restaurants, Chizzo, has been serving for many years and still offers some of the best Tirolese and international cuisine. In the past we’ve enjoyed staying at the 5-star A-Rosa hotel for it’s incredible dining and spa/steam experience, however this trip we opted for the Schloss Hotel Lebenberg. With a beautiful view of Kitzbühel below and a castle tower room, we relaxed in the pool/steam/sauna area and then drifted off to sleep under the thickest down comforter imaginable.